marriage is what brings us together in China

Tim and Michelle got married! Their wedding was on May 21, and was arranged to fall on the first weekend that the May Team would be in Qinhuangdao so that family and friends from home could also share in the marital celebration :)

I was commissioned to make five (5) cheesecakes for the reception dessert. We don't have beaters in China readily available, so I used blenders. Lemons are also scant, so I used lime juice from America. I ran out of vanilla, so I used almond extract. We don't have heavy cream or sour cream at reasonable prices, so I used yogurt. It turned out GREAT.

Seriously. I'm using these substitutions in America.

Reception settings, and Chinese wine. (One should have a few glasses before actually enjoying it, in my opinion.)

The gorgeous bride and the handsome groom during the reception. We had an American style wedding with heavy Chinese influence. I think that would be the best description of the event. :)

No wedding (or store opening, restaurant opening, holiday, moving into a new residence, etc.) would be complete without a roll of fire crackers. Heart shaped, naturally.

The whole team, plus spouses :)

Such a good wedding!

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Since we are all teachers of Chinese students who are dyyyyying to know what an American wedding is like, we decided to reenact the event on the volleyball courts for the entirety of the school. Really, there were so many students watching, some teachers had to physically hold/push them back.

This image doesn't even begin to capture the chaos.

Dane, sporting his eclectic formal get-up;

essentially, a perfect metaphor for the entire second wedding. :)

So, because it was an American wedding, Tim and Michelle had bridesmaids and groomsmen. Nine of each, naturally.

If you were an American, and in nice attire, you were in the wedding party.

...and there's our sound guy, just... hanging out... in the wedding party... during the ceremony. As he lit up and exhaled absentmindedly, Kevin and Justin's faces were priceless...

Every student had their cell phones out. I wonder how many images of Michelle and Tim (and all of us, for that matter) are floating around on the Chinese interwebs...

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It really did take a village effort to pull this event off, and everyone- the May Team, Tim's family, ELT Edge Teachers, ELIC Teachers, and students made this day go wonderfully and smoothly. We are all so thankful!

Where my heart has been this whole time.

I love my students.

I have not written much about any of them in this blog.

Sometimes when I think about them,

and how great they are,

and how precious they are,

and how much they are so hungry for knowledge and eager to learn,

my heart feels so big it wants to burst.

Our last week of class, I told them all to bring their favorite snacks to class.

And to prepare a song to sing.

My class monitor replied to that message with a passionate, "are you serious i am so excited you will not be dissappointed!!!!!?"

Oh, my goodness, I wasn't(!!!!!?)

He brought his electric piano. If anything, I was worried he was too exuberant for the amount of talent I assumed he had. WAS I WRONG.

He played a Chopin Waltz- one that I do not own, so I can't remember the name. (bagh...) but his passion and talent came POURING out.

His fingers moved so fast; his interpretation of how it should be played was immaculate, and where his little keyboard fell short in range, he made up for in creative adaptations that you wouldn't catch if you didn't know the song.

And this was all from memory. A 13 minute piece from memory. How this child had the time to memorize this, as well as take the college entrance exam, as well as being student in China is beyond me.

This is one of my dearest student friends; he is filming the piano player. This student is like a father to the class. The most emotionally intelligent student I have met yet; he is affirming, kind, generous, and hilaaaaarious.

He has a twin brother who he says is his exact opposite. I need to meet him!

As one of the other students was taking their turn singing their favorite song, she began to forget the words. To encourage her, the students in the back began to wave their arms back and forth- beautiful.

Class picture of my second class of freshman. A bit quieter, but VERY attentive and loving. They have already created a strong community within their class.

This is my third freshman class. I love them so much. I love all of my students, so me typing this feels REALLY redundant, but seriously. I do.

As I was saying my last few words to them, three girls were crying in the back.

I really do. I love them so much.

A Few Things

I'm sure many of you feel the same, whether you're in the U.S. or in a land farther away (if that's possible) : THIS SPRING WENT BY SO UNBELIEVABLY FAST. March 1 hit, and it has been full throttle ever since. IT STILL IS. So the first short, however very sincere, thing is that I apologize. I apologize for not writing as much as I should have, and for not giving you the appropriate amount of updates that I, at one point, promised I would.

Second thing: i've been in China for approximately nine months total by this point, yet sights still do not cease to amaze me. Among some horrible things that I won't put in a blog post, I have also seen things that tickle me- most often they occur right outside my apartment, on the street with all the food vendors. Most recently, the cabbage truck is my favorite. This tall, tipsy truck decides to pick an arbitrary spot on a lawn who's owner is ambiguous enough that it feels comfortable enough to park, and it parks. WIth it's back end facing the street, the door unlatches to reveal a 10 foot high WALL of cabbage, perfectly lined up and stacked, like a tessalation or pattern of those blocks you get in elementary school that lets you make those really sweet designs. People just come by, and participate in a shady looking interaction, and then proceed on their way- if there was a cabbage black market, this would certainly belong.

Buuuut I don't have a picture, because everytime I have seen said truck, I am on a run, and I don't take my camera with me. Sorry.

Third thing: Pig not in a blanket. in a VAN. Stay with me on this street, but just turn around and head east for about 10 yards. You will see a meat vendor at a stand with slabs of butchered animal hanging behind him. Not a rare sight, (actually it's ALL rare!! I didn't try to do that, it just happened) so I don't even blink as I pass. But two nights ago, Heidi and I went for a walk, and they must have been recieving a delivery or something, because there it was. A pig in a van. Not a live one, but if you took the two halves you saw, that were cut nose to navel, just laying on the floor of the van and super-glued them perfectly back together, you could have mistaken the pig as perhaps sleeping??

It was such a fascinating sight that I just stopped, back tracked, and inspected as the vendors commented on and laughed about the american looking at a dead pig. At least it didn't smell of formaldehyde... Don't worry, I've never bought meet from them before, nor do I plan to. :)

Fourth thing: At our school, Northeast University at Qinhuangdao, the foreign teachers have a cooperating teacher that answers our culture questions, takes care of our apartments, organizes and works on our provincial and city visas, accompanies us to our doctor's appointments (if needed), and is the liaison during the hiring process. This person's English name is Henry. Henry is one of the most mellow, relaxed, soft spoken people I have ever met in my life. So chill, in fact, that when he smiles it seems as though it takes a LOT of effort, and that when one's cheeks would normally pull up, his pull out and stretch to the side, making it look a bit strained. Whatever, each to his own... (I guess) but due to this odd stoicism juxtaposed next to our team's happy-go-lucky m.o., we decided to make it our goal to make him laugh.

I succeeded.

It was so simple: I was excited to play with the foreign language department in the annual volleyball tournament at our school. Henry asked me how I was at volleyball, and if I was planning on joining them for the games. Without considering cultural norms/boundaries, or his general demeanor, I exclaimed loudly, in rapid-fire style, in an echo-y hallway, "YES I can't WAIT. I love playing volleyball- are we good? are you playing, Henry? Yeah, BRING IT ON!" ...as I bounce on my toes and playfully punch the air like a boxer warming up.

His eyes widened, he opened his mouth, and LAUGHED. A bonified LAUGH.

cool. I'll take it.

But then the conclusion to that interaction ended as awkwardly as any other conversation between a native Mandarin speaker and a native English speaker could. He stopped laughing as quickly as he started, turned abruptly into the room he was unlocking, and I, sensing the conversation had stopped, walked away. Later than comfortable, I hear him quietly say, "see you then. Yes, have a good night."

You too, Henry. You too. (oiy)

CHINA: fallen and/but redeemed/redeemable

China, and more specifically my city, Qinhuangdao, has proven to me that the title of this blog is absolutely true, in many many ways. I have been unintentionally compiling a list of reasons I make this claim that directly apply to my experience here. Most of this is tongue in cheek, but for all of the reformed thinkers out there, 'ta panta,' right? :)

Signs that China is fallen

a. the spitting

b. overselling of tickets around holidays so that trains are absolutely packed, too hot, and impossible to get on or off.

c. pigs feet as a snack. (did it once, won't do it again.)

d. when one is running, and that one is clearly listening to one's ipod, in one's own world, shouting hello and putting your hand in one's face in order to get that one's attention (because that one isn't hyper-aware enough to know you're there already but is choosing to ignore you) is assinine. and more proof.

e. crazy taxi rides that only God could save one from

f. KTV

g. chipmunk techno music in crazy taxi rides that only God could save one from

h. how hard my students study in order to stay at average

i. the real-estate bubble

j. the closing of the Beijing church on Easter Morning

k. the bird that flew into one's bedroom at 6am due to the perfect sized hole in one's wall

l. the coal dust. ...so much coal dust.

m. when one blows one's nose it's a color that is new this year per 'l.'

n. the beeping of horns and shouts of 'hello!! ...hello?' while one is running

o. all of the oil in the food that makes one's pants tighter

p. Kunming airport closing at night, making comfortable couches and chairs easily seen but unavailable, closing all vending stations, and taking away luggage carts while one is spending the night there due to a layover.

q. the rats

r. how sinfully good the snacks on snack street are

s. glitter, bows, hello kitty, and sequins

Signs that China is redeemed/redeemable

a. the strawberries

b. the pineapple

c. the mangoes

d. the fast trains on non-holiday weekends

e. the beach near Dongda, and how close it is

f. my students, and how intelligent, sweet, considerate, curious, loving, caring, and funny they are.

g. my coworkers at my school. supportive and helpful, despite language barriers

h. basketball tournaments and winning them

i. NanDaiHe

j. BeiDaiHe

k. being the tallest on the court during basketball tournaments

l. a dear friendship I have with a student who is exactly like me. essentially me, but Chinese

m. students cooking food in my apartment

n. meals out at restaurants with my students

o. discussions with my students

p. my students in class

q. my students

r. how divinely good the snacks on snack street are

s. how close Beijing is for necessary clothes shopping and cheese. ...and cereal

Obviously this is a very narrow scope, and almost 100% is tailored to my comfort level and my desires. Buuuuuuuuut i think my claim still stands.

Love you all <3

linds

virus leave me now

So I’m sick; got a cold. Nasty virus. I’m in China. Nasty air. Bleeeeech…

I’ve been sick here before: colds, a flu, and even food poisoning. (Pretty much the standard welcome to a foreign country.)

I’m sitting here, on my bed, listening to life happen outside my window, too worn out to teach class, too annoyed with sleeping or attempting to, but too bored to just sit without occupying my mind in some way. Hence, this post.

Just listening to the sounds outside has made me realize how accustomed to them I am. I’ve been keeping a sort of tally or list of what sounds happen when, as well as, due to my overall irritation with my health at the moment, my level of irritation with said sounds.

(Let me clarify something: for me, there is a fine line between irritation and amusement. Most days, I’m amused by the sounds, sights, and smells I experience. But this virus has blurred the line and muddied the distinction. I'm hyper-aware and unfriendly.)

Starting at 5:30am, on most mornings (work weeks are all day every day for many Chinese), I hear chopping for breakfast, doors opening and closing, and heavy, tired footsteps echo throughout the all concrete structure which is my apartment building. One set of footsteps in particular is quickly followed by a melodic, rhythmic car alarm being deactivated. (MUSIC NERD: ¾ time; 3 quarter notes followed by 3 eighth notes of Do Re Mi Do-Re-Mi.) My wooooord it’s as bad as the ticking of a clock.

Once the morning bustles have faded, grandmothers watching their grandchildren come out to converse about anything and everything. It is approximately 8:15am. They have probably already had breakfast, done their Tai Chi for the day, grocery shopped and sent their son and daughter-in-law off to work. Their grandkids are really cute, and as we walk by, they wave awkwardly, saying, “ai-ee ai-ee!” which is an affectionate term for auntie, I believe.

Now this isn’t necessarily irritating, until they hang out right under your second story window, laughing and cajoling with each other at 8 am as your medication begins to wear off, cruelly leaving you in a sleep deprived, virus compounding, post advil-cold-and-sinus stupor as your nose begins to run and your hand blindly gropes, because you don’t yet have the sense to put your glasses on, for that d-word, grade ‘f’ toilet paper roll that you are forced to use because you ran out of tissues. When you do finally wipe your chaffed nose, while unfolding and placing your glasses on your face with your free hand, you realize the women are talking about the foreigners who live on the first, second, and third floor. Then your sweet, purely curious, class monitor from your 2 o’clock class texts you asking if they will have class cancelled like their roommates did the night before.

These events were not amusing.

As the women return to their respective apartments to begin the chopping for lunch, the magpies begin. Oh what horrid, odious birds. These things are big and loud and they don’t chirp or tweet or do anything in the realm of ‘pretty’. Close your throat up really tightly, imagine you’ve been smoking for at least 10 years, and then push air out of your throat a little bit higher than your normal talking register: THAT’S WHAT THEY SOUND LIKE. No lie. They click-click-click and then make that guttural, smoker’s scream, then click-click-click again. Ogden Nash should have had a second verse to his famous poem:

God in his wisdom made the fly
And then forgot to tell us why.

God in his wisdom made the magpie

So that, near death, we wish to die

…a bit melodramatic in retrospect, but this was how I felt this morning.

Every once in a while, maybe once a week when the weather is nice, we have a man, riding a three wheeled contraption that has two to four large plastic jugs on the back, making his rounds throughout our neighborhood. He shouts, repeatedly, that he is bringing honey, and honey is here. When I studied advertising, we spent time looking at jingles and repeated phrases as techniques for ideas and products to ‘stick’ in an audience's mind. Whether or not this man has consciously adopted these techniques is irrelevant- what he says, repeatedly, in the same intonation everytime, sticks like, well, honey. (sorry.)

In Chinese, it is: Fengme lai le!! Or, literally, Honey is here! And with the emphasis added, I hear it as: FuuuuuUUUUUNG ME lie luh!!

Over.

And over.

Again.

If I go on, I will be encroaching on my needed naptime and on the afternoon sounds, which aren’t nearly as exciting. So, good night. My medication has kicked in.

Vase Chase

It was International Women’s Day a few days ago, giving our foreign languages department a reason to show us a random and poorly communicated act of kindness. After a standardly awkward phone call, I had a tall, fan-like bouquet of roses, gerber daisies, and chrysanthemums (I totally spelled that correctly on the first try- can I get a ‘kudos’ please?) sitting in my living room. They stuck the flower stems in a chunk of green foam, which teetered precariously on my coffee table under the weight of the flowers, sending me on a quick search through my apartment. The only option I had for an appropriate container was my tea pot…

I needed a vase.

So, yesterday, after a fulfilling and substantial lunch at our favorite diner (I use the word ‘diner’ very loosely), Heidi and I pass a woman selling vegetables and other knick-knacks on the street.

(Vendors on the street are very different from what we are accustomed to in the U.S. If I’m at the farmer’s market, and I make eye contact with a vendor, I will receive a nod and smile, perhaps a hello, depending on their level of extroverted-ness, and I will walk by unscathed. If I show a remote amount of interest in their product, then a few behaviors are possible: small talk about the weather, a scarf I’m wearing, a hat they are wearing, a polite inquiry of what I’m looking for, how they can help, a ‘let me know if I can help you with anything’, maybe a sampling if it is food, or indifference about my presence until I actually want to buy something. I’m in my world, they are in theirs, and that’s the American, private, polite way.)

Being tall, white, and blonde, I already draw enough attention to myself in the street. I DON’T NEED HELP IN THIS ARENA. So they were already aware of my walking by. But as I was walking by, I noticed some awesome, dried, hollowed out gourds for sale. Much to my chagrin, I glanced down, slowed my gait, and went, “hmm.” Rooooookieeee.

She instantly started talking to me, and I said I wasn’t interested, and quickly walked away.

When I caught up to Heidi, Heidi goes, “You DO want a vase, don’t you? Get the gourd!” I had let my strong aversion to being heckled take me away from something I actually wanted. So we headed back, two strong.

Heidi picked up a small one, and I was checking out the bigger ones as the vendor was making small talk. She barely came up to our shoulders, and was quite sweet, with a bubbly laugh and rough, overworked hands. When she saw Heidi pull out her wallet, the women goes “NO NO NO! just take it, it doesn’t matter, they are so cheap and little. No big deal no big deal!” I don’t know about you, or what you would do in this situation, or even what would have been the most appropriate or most polite for something that little and insignificant like a gourd. But to Heidi and me, it was the principle of the exchange, not the price.

We engaged in a battle. She was forcing the money back into our pockets, we were taking it out again and shoving it into her hands, back and forth, back and forth as her giggling grew to an overwhelming guffaw. Finally, reluctantly, Heidi and I conceded. But as the woman’s back was turned, we shoved the money into a box that held bags and other supplies right before we took off.

We got her. We won. Neener.

As we were congratulating ourselves for our counter-intuitive bargaining skills and morally superior victory, we hear some soft footsteps behind us- the woman was about a yard away from our purses, money in hand, ready to slip it in- we never heard her coming! We backed our butts and purses away so she wasn’t able to reach them as her giggling began again.

“You keep it you keep it!” And we took off running with her silent scuttling following us. She slowed down and gave up quickly, but we were already completely impressed. We never heard her coming… and for a woman of over 60 to move that quickly and silently? What do these woman eat? Super rice?

So fun. After a semester and a half in this country, province, and city, I feel as though I finally have a hint of an understanding of the existing M.O. of the people here, and understanding that has made me much more comfortable in interactions and conversations. This vase chase was a sign of that.

Another Victory.

More Pieces of my China: Everyday Apartment

This is a simple post to show you followers out there what my everyday living space looks like. This is my apartment, minus my bedroom. I need to clean that.

This first picture is what you would see as you walk through my apartment door. My 'lobby' as I like to call it. I cook here on my hot-pot (my teapot is sitting on it here), make my French press coffee in the morning (thank you, Arends, for making that possible), and where I have also set up my pantry.

Through this door you see my refrigerator, my 'cupboards' with my plates, cups, and silverware, and through that second door is my porch. Across from the refrigerator is a sink and a washing machine that I rarely use. You wouldn't either if your team mate had a brand new washing machine made in the last year. See that pastel drawing? That's the pistachio nut from the 13 hour train ride. ... :)

I LOVE INK. I have been experimenting with it since October, and have had a ton of fun. Andrea sent me these photos in maybe September...? and I just got them in the mail. I had a blank wall, and viola.

When you turn right after walking into my 'lobby', you walk through a doorway and see this. The sun is shining more and more as the Spring approaches. P. T. L. I didn't paint that painting. But I DID paint that floor!

I painted this mirror in the beginning of the year because my apartment needed SERIOUS help in the 'attractive' department. However, when you look into the mirror on the right side, your waist widens and your self-image goes down. When you shift your weight to look into it on the left, your figure resumes it's original shape. I didn't know I was purchasing and painting a fun-house mirror, but it does the job, I guess.

I like this. :) Truth.